My name is Valerio Grotti, I’m 24 years old and I started riding 8 years ago. I usually ride sports motorcycles, often on track, but then, one day, Dainese asked me if I wanted to go on a journey to the other side of the world, the Dainese Expedition Masters. Last year, during a 12-day trip to South Africa, I tried riding off-road for the first time. I love new thrilling experiences and that’s precisely why Dainese invited me to Patagonia – so I could enjoy amazing ones again.
During this trip, I got to know part of the Dainese team and other Dainese ambassadors like me. I didn’t know anyone at first, yet we all formed a bond – we were a fantastic team. Traveling to the other side of the world with some strangers sounds a bit reckless, but in the end they were the best people I met in 2023! Meeting other enthusiasts is extraordinary, as they have so many things to tell you. I got to know Fabien Barel in particular, multiple winner of the MTB World Championship and motorcycle enthusiast, and Sinje Gottwald, an extraordinary adventure-loving woman with an incredible and compelling story, and then people from the United States, Austria, France... People from all over the world who met up here, in Patagonia.
Six days and 1,000 km through El Calafate, Perito Moreno, Puerto Natales and Torres Del Paine. A challenging schedule, but I couldn’t wait to discover different landscapes and cultures, ride on- and off-road to see glaciers, a nature reserve and even the desert: It turned out to be an extraordinary mix of different terrains and a fantastic experience.
We were given a comprehensive kit for the occasion, so as to be as best prepared as possible on the journey. Dainese really thought of everything – a special travel backpack, adventure helmet and all the motorcycle gear needed to face heat, cold, wind, rain and Patagonia’s changeable weather conditions.
Helmet: AGV AX9 Carbon – The best choice for a trip like this. It’s incredibly comfortable and, owing to its broad visor, it offers a very wide field of vision. Alternatively, you can easily remove the visor and wear goggles when riding off-road.
Full jacket-trouser suit: Dainese Hekla Absoluteshell™ Pro 20K – The ultimate adventure outfit. I’d never felt that cozy in a motorcycle outfit. The full jacket-trouser suit is extremely comfortable and pleasant to wear, as well as ideal for the temperatures of Patagonia. When I was hot, I just opened the air vents to cool down while riding, and when it rained I simply closed them, making the suit totally waterproof. We had a big downpour on the last day, but I didn’t feel a single drop of rain on me. One morning it was very chilly, about 5 °C, but owing to the jacket and pants’ removable lining I didn’t feel any cold at all. It’s a very versatile and practical outfit, with many internal and external pockets to store items like cell phone, camera batteries, documents, etc. Whatever the weather, all my personal belongings were always safe and at hand, protected from cold or rain.
Boots: TCX Infinity 3 Gore-Tex® – Such fantastic boots! Extraordinarily comfortable, an essential quality on long journeys; optimal shin and ankle protection – an important factor especially when riding off-road, shielding you from any stone bouncing off the ground. Finally, these boots are also really easy to put on, fitting over or under the Hekla pants, and they’re waterproof, so much so that we managed to cross a river without even getting our feet wet.
Technical layers: Dainese Dry and Dainese Thermo – We had several options, depending on the weather. It’s important to make an informed choice, as each garment is designed for a specific use. On the first day, for example, the weather was very nice and to avoid getting too hot and sweaty while riding I chose the Dry set, the lightest, which keeps the body cool and dry. It’s much more pleasant to wear compared to a simple T-shirt that sticks to the skin when you sweat. On the last day, on the other hand, when it was cold and rainy, I chose the Dainese Thermo outfit, so as to stay warm and dry.
Gloves: Dainese Thunder Gore-Tex® + Dainese Karakum Ergo-Tek – I decided to bring two pairs of gloves, more summery ones and ones specifically made for winter. The summer gloves turned out to be a very good choice for off-road riding, as you can have more contact with the handlebar but be protected in the event of a fall without feeling too hot, while the Thunder Gore-Tex® were very useful on cold days to avoid freezing fingertips and stay dry, owing to the Gore-Tex® material, which is ideal in the rain.
Waterproof, perforated or four-season: the perfect touring equipment
We were lucky enough to always spend the night in fantastic hotels with wonderful views. A good night’s sleep in a comfortable bed was essential, so as to be rested before a long day’s riding, but it was equally important to fully enjoy Patagonia’s natural wonders. Sleeping close to the beach, overlooking the sea and seeing the animals going by in front of the hotel was a really amazing experience.
We didn’t need a lot of official documentation to travel in Patagonia: ID card, passport and international driving license were sufficient. For good measure, we purchased international health insurance, useful in case of a serious fall, but it wasn’t very expensive and thankfully I didn’t need it.
As regards phones, I decided not to buy a local SIM card or use a dedicated offer as part of my plan for two main reasons: Firstly, the Wi-Fi we had in hotels or sometimes at a restaurant for lunch was enough for me to share content on social networks or speak to my family; secondly, I wanted to experience this trip as much as possible. I know myself well: I know that if I were to be online everywhere, I’d be constantly on the phone, during each break, while I wanted to take advantage of this occasion to disconnect and live my daily riding adventures to the fullest. So, I was happy to just go online in the evening, at the hotel, or during the lunch break, if the restaurant had Wi-Fi available (not always).
As mentioned, my only experience off-road had been during a 12-day journey to South Africa, so my level is really low, especially because I’m not used to feel the motorcycle sliding away in all directions, as on the track – which is what I’m used to – we do the opposite and focus on traction. This is why I had some concerns riding this Ducati Desert X at first, with which I wasn’t familiar at all, on terrains I had little experience with. But in the end it was really good! The whole group benefited from the advice imparted by Luca Bono, our extraordinary guide who, with a lot of patience, constantly watched over us and taught us the basics of off-road riding, such as how to sit on the bike and how to react in case of any unexpected issues. We were in good hands then, which was very reassuring for an off-road beginner like me.
Three airplanes and 24 hours’ flight time to reach El Calafate. It’s the first time I fly for so many hours, but the time goes pleasantly by because of the excellent company. I meet the whole Dainese team and admire the extraordinary landscapes we soar over during this long journey. At midnight, we arrive at the hotel, with many mixed emotions – tiredness, jet lag, happiness and the curiosity of being on the other side of the world, as well as a desire to ride off and discover Patagonia.
The big day has come! We get up at 8 a.m., breakfast with the whole team and Luca patiently explains all that we need to know about the Dainese Expedition Masters. It’s a really challenging schedule, but we’re not here to relax so, after all, it’s much better this way!
After getting ready and putting on my fantastic Hekla outfit, I run outside to get acquainted with the Ducati Desert X that I’ll soon be riding. What a nice bike, so pleasant and comfortable! I feel immediately at ease on the saddle. From the very first day, we can admire – with our own eyes – amazing landscapes and an incredible natural environment. What a treat to be here in Patagonia.
Here we go. We start with a bit of off-road and after only 30 minutes Luca stops us all for his first riding technique lesson. Yes, because we won’t venture on the scheduled routes without Luca first giving us some invaluable advice – he explains which position to adopt and how to react in the event of issues, correcting everyone’s posture so that we can all ride in safety.
We take various small trails and reach a narrow lane with a lot of horses and goats... We get off the motorcycle and notice a small restaurant, lost in the middle of nowhere. We decide to eat here and try some particular mutton and vegetable dishes. After a coffee and a brief relaxing break, we leave Lago to head toward the Strait of Magellan, an extraordinary place where an enormous glacier rises up.
Once there, we take a trail that leads us straight in front of the Perito Moreno glacier, so that we can admire it up close. The sight is impressive and frightening at the same time. We see and hear the chunks of ice breaking off in front of our eyes. Astonishing. We take a few moments to appreciate the silence that reigns here, listening to the ice shattering and reflecting on the environmental issues that caused this glacier to significantly shrink over the years... It’s sad, but also mind-boggling.
Adventure motorcycle jacket with waterproof and breathable membrane for all-season use. Level 2 Pro Armor soft protectors on shoulders and elbows.
Then we immediately hit the road, to go back to the hotel in El Calafate. There’s no time to lose: We take a quick shower, get changed and we’re off to a restaurant in town, where they serve the biggest chunks of meat I’ve ever seen in my life. My piece of meat alone must have weighed 600 gr. Massive! We eat well, laughing and joking, and finally it’s time to go to sleep.
I don’t know it yet, but this will be a challenging day, though the morning starts well. I get up at 6 a.m. due to a slightly noisy neighbor; so, I decide to take this opportunity to take some photos at dawn with my drone and to take in the landscape surrounding the hotel.
After a hearty breakfast we set off – only a five-minute ride, just enough to get to the sea shore, admire some amazing views and take some more photos. Within an hour, we get back on the saddle and start riding in earnest. Today’s schedule is challenging, in both mental and physical terms. We take Ruta 40, a wide road that crosses one of the largest deserts in the world, the Patagonian Desert.
There’s absolutely nothing around us for miles and miles, only a strong wind that blows incessantly sideways, forcing us to carefully balance our weight on the motorcycle: We’re going straight, but the motorcycles tilt! Luckily, we’re well equipped and with my winter gloves my fingers aren’t cold, and my Hekla outfit’s thermal lining turns out to be very useful. After about a hundred kilometers, we finally glimpse a gas station with a small restaurant: We decide to have lunch here. But we can’t stay for too long – we have to immediately set off again to cross the border between Argentina and Chile.
So, here we are in Güer Aike, where we reach the customs point to enter Chile. Luckily, Dainese has thought of everything and the team takes care of providing all the motorcycle documentation, our international driving licenses and all the documents needed to cross the border. We’re back on the motorcycle for about five kilometers, then we do the same on the Chilean side. After two hours of red tape, we reach a small place in Torres Del Paine, in Cerro Castillo, where we stop for a short break, have a coffee and chat with some locals and tourists who are admiring our Ducati Desert X motorcycles.
We’re back on the saddle for 45 minutes, on- and off-road, until we reach the hotel. But before going to sleep, we have dinner at a restaurant where we taste a very special kind of meat... guanaco meat! It’s very nice, though I’m almost sorry to be eating such a cute little animal that looks a bit like a llama.
Here’s the highlight of the trip! Today, we’ll almost exclusively ride off-road. But it’s worth it, as after a two-hour ride amid wild animals, desert and breathtaking landscapes, we reach Del Toro Lake. We stop once more, to appreciate the present moment and our experience. Nature is really extraordinary here. Though it really is very cold and the wind is incredibly strong, we’re all properly dressed up, nobody complains and we can contemplate the fantastic scenery in complete serenity.
After a few more riding tips from Luca, we get back on the saddle and head toward a restaurant for today’s lunch – the most beautiful place I’ve ever eaten. It’s a small restaurant in the middle of the mountains and close to a lake, Pehoé Lake. The food is really good and we make the most of the trails around here to shoot some videos and take some photos that will become unforgettable memories.
What do you think, time to go home? No! There’s a last stage in Laguna Amarga: The color of the water is extraordinary. We forget tiredness, cold and rain, lost in contemplation of these breathtaking views.
After 80 km off-road, we’re finally back at the hotel and tonight Dainese has a surprise for us: We’ll eat in a very special restaurant, inside a former slaughterhouse. That might not sound very exciting, but once downstairs we find ourselves in a huge room with a very extensive choice of meat. I go for some guanaco meat again, and some beef. Delicious. And now to bed – tomorrow is the last day on the saddle and we have to be in good shape.
Sadly, this is the last day, and it’s also cold. No problem, however – I whip out my Dainese Thermo underwear, the jacket’s lining, my winter gloves and I’m ready to go. We’re back on the wide Ruta 40 road to cross the border and go back to Argentina, with a small detour to Indeterminada, where Luca explains how to cross a rather deep ford, with half of the motorcycle immersed in the water. The temperature is only 5 °C, the wind is very strong and it’s raining, but we’re all warm and dry owing to our outfits, which protect us until we arrive at a small restaurant in Cerro Castillo.
Choosing a helmet isn’t something you can take for granted, especially when you’re starting out. Here’s a complete guide on how to choose your ideal helmet.
A quick stop, then we’re back on the saddle for some off-road, surrounded by beautiful landscapes and wild guanacos. We’re back in Güer Aike, where we decide to stop in the middle of the countryside so we can all picnic together. It’s only a quick stop, as the road ahead is long, with lots more off-road stretches, and we won’t ride at night as it’s too dangerous. We cross huge rocky plains. Today, the off-road level is more challenging and we’re starting to feel tired. It’s hard, but we follow Luca’s advice on how not to fall over and even manage to have fun.
A small mechanical mishap forces us to stop for a few minutes: A stone pierces one of the motorcycle’s radiators, the 4x4 assistance vehicle retrieves it and we continue on our way.
After a few kilometers on dirt and asphalt we finally reach El Calafate. This is our last night in Argentina before flying back tomorrow and Dainese surprises us again. We eat in someone’s house – a couple who’ve decided to turn their living room in a small restaurant, Le Yenu Bistro, which I highly recommend. The food is delicious and they welcome us with open arms. A really incredible experience. Once we have received our Dainese Expedition Masters attendance certificates, we go back to the hotel to get some rest...
As if! We decide to hit the town for some drinks and to celebrate this extraordinary trip. Everyone comes along and we stay out until late, toasting to this mind-boggling experience and an outstanding team.
The morning after, we have a couple of hours to enjoy the nice weather and the town and some of us decide to visit the center on foot. It’s a great idea, because we meet two French people who are crossing Argentina and Chile in a van. We have a long chat with them before going back to the hotel to get the luggage and head to the airport.
After a long journey back – 24 hours and four flights – we arrive at Aix-en-Provence in the middle of the night. I’m tired but happy to have had such an amazing adventure and met such fantastic people. My head is full of dreams, indelible memories and a promise – to travel again with this crazy bunch, to relive the incredible experience that is a Dainese Expedition Master.
Thank you Dainese, thank you so much for everything!
