When I was 12, I got my first motorcycle, a Montesa Cota 49. 50 years ago, the concept of GPS didn’t even exist but even so I used to venture on 200-km trips or even longer ones through the countryside. At 16, I made the great leap to a Montesa Enduro 250. I already had a calling for off-road riding, asphalt was only for short traits. Over the last 25 years, I organized journeys and events under the name Desorientados, and we got “disoriented” in Portugal, France, Italy, Morocco, Mauritania and Senegal. Now that I have all the time in the world, I continue to juggle my passions, trying to combine motorcycling and family. And this is how it’s going to be, until I’ll no longer be able to wear a helmet.
The alarm goes off. It's time to go. The participants arrived early this morning, their motorcycles have been on standby for hours and everything has to be ready for the technical checks.
The 2022 Africa Twin Morocco Epic Tour, an organized trip to the desert on an enduro motorcycle, was set up months ago, and today it’ll finally come together. New and familiar faces. Hugs, photos, laughter and a great desire to set off. An 8-km “prologue” will allow the guides to assess the riders' skills. This sandy trail is the most technical part of the route and will give us the opportunity to organize pretty much everyone into groups. We’ll have the official event presentation before dinner and then off to bed.
It’s dawn yet the park fermé is already bustling. Each guide forms a circle with their group members, to provide instructions for the first stage. Whether old-timers or newbies experiencing their first Epic, some look impatient, some nervous, some have butterflies in their stomach. This first stage, named “Mountain Oasis”, is circular with initially easy tracks and then increasingly more difficult ones as the kilometers go by. It’s an opportunity for the guides to observe the participants’ riding levels and, depending on individual abilities, make the necessary adjustments to ensure that each group is as homogeneous as possible.
After a road stretch, the first stage begins – a winding path with sandy terrain, a fun taste of the Africa Twin Morocco Epic Tour. I cross a first river of sand, looking for the straightest and, in general, least complicated route, then turn around and see that no one is following me. Some participants stopped at the beginning of this rather more technical stretch, a few motorcycles have fallen over, others are trying alternative routes that are actually even more difficult. So, I get off my motorcycle and head toward them to help them through this first step: I’m the leader of group 5, and it’s become clear to me that this edition will be tougher than usual and it’ll involve putting many, many tipped over vehicles back on their wheels again.
My group goes on without any other issues up to the refueling stop, on tracks that let you enjoy the surrounding landscape. We refuel at Alnif and get some Cokes to regain some zing as some are already getting tired. At each stop we have a chat, exchange tips and little by little we all lose that kind of armor we hide behind so as not to show our more “human” side.
Although this first stage was assessed as a medium-low difficulty level stretch, physical fitness is very important. We’ll spend many hours riding off-road on big and heavy motorcycles, and Morocco, sooner or later, takes everyone down a peg or two.
Waterproof, perforated or four-season: the perfect touring equipment
Just before reaching the picnic site, a long strip of sand has participants deciding that “that's enough for today” and go back to the hotel on asphalt, leaving the next third of the route “to the next time” – in my opinion, that’s a beautiful stretch where you can see the desert just as you’d always imagined it. An infinite space, boundless plains whose length is difficult to determine at first glance, dotted here and there with a few acacia trees and where you can spot herds of dromedaries, which most of us unexperienced foreigners insist on calling camels.
However, some members in the group want to go on, and I won't be the one cutting short their Epic fun; so, as we picnic, I talk to the guide of group 4, who’ll take them along. There are also members of other groups who’ve had enough for the day and prefer completing the stage by road. In this way, everyone is happy and can enjoy the tour to the fullest.
At the hotel, everyone talks about their experience, some by the pool, some in the massage room, some sitting around a table full of empty glasses. After each dinner, a briefing on the next day’s stage is held for the participants, who also receive a document via WhatsApp, so that everyone is aware of the route’s peculiarities and is in possession of the advice needed to tackle what will come next.
Before this briefing, all staff meets up to discuss things: medical team, motorcycle guides, audiovisual team, mechanics team, vehicle drivers, picnic catering team, Honda staff and the Epic Tour Director all go through the day’s events and the next day’s stage. There’s more than 40 of us, making sure that all is perfect, as we work on the premise is that participants and guests come here to have fun. Moreover, every evening after dinner, us five motorcycle guides hold our own specific briefing related to the next day's stage.
The alarm goes off again – it's dawn and another wonderful day enjoying enduro riding in the desert awaits us. After breakfast, the participants go to the parc fermé to look for their motorcycles. The mechanics spend several hours every morning ensuring that all vehicles are ready to tackle a new stage. Participants' motorcycles are regularly checked for damage (handguards broken during a fall, rearview mirror, puncture repairs – during the stage, the service cars following us carry a complete set of tires so that, in the event of a puncture, the damaged tire can be quickly replaced with a new one, etc.). It’s also necessary to have replacements spare parts for more complex repairs: Believe it or not, when a motorcycle capsizes badly, there’s always a hidden rock popping out of nowhere to damage the crankcase, no matter how many guards you’ve equipped it with.
The team preparing our glorious picnics every day ride on two vans and a 6x6 truck and set themselves up in the chosen spot, parking in a U-shape to ensure that, if the wind blows, we can eat with the least possible discomfort and have extra shade from the vehicles. The setup is amazing: Two marquees with water-spraying fans provide shelter from this country’s typical high temperatures and can accommodate three groups seated at tables at the same time.
The participants can make themselves comfortable in this catering space and, while taking off their jackets and loosening their boots, quench their thirst with cool drinks and fortify themselves with ham and cheese appetizers, a selection of cocktail sausages, chips, soups… even tripe with chickpeas, as they wait for the main dish of the day. Fruits, sweets, coffee, fresh water for their camelbacks... And no napping! Staying in the shade is very pleasant but we must go on.
As the days go by, participants start feeling the tiredness, and the number of falls increases. Fortunately, they’re all minor injuries that can be treated on the spot by the medical team. However, for those who prefer, a medical service is available at the hotel every day at set times.
Once again, we wake up to the sound of the alarm – it's dawn and it's time to put on our “armors”. Having some comfortable equipment allowing for total freedom of movement without feeling overloaded is no less important than a good motorcycle on which to appreciate the Moroccan desert to the fullest. Dainese, sponsor of the Africa Twin Morocco Epic Tour, is committed to constantly improving the active safety of motorcycle riders on all types of routes, and has provided us Epic guides with the ideal apparel for demanding desert rides, with which we always feel comfortable and protected. In fact, on the first day I had a bad fall and, thanks to such good equipment, I avoided a possible injury that would have prevented me from continuing the adventure.
In an inhospitable environment such as the desert, it’s essential to wear garments that allow us to ride in optimal thermal comfort, as well as protect us from impact. You need a robust yet breathable jacket, so as not to suffer from the heat, even better if it features detachable sleeves, as the safety jacket worn below will protect the arms. The same goes for pants – they must be resistant but also ventilated, so it’s best if they have air vents that can be opened or closed if necessary.
In a 100% off-road trip like this one, feet and ankles must be protected with pure off-road boots or adventure boots, which not only shield foot and joint but are also high enough to cover the shin. In terms of helmet, motocross or adventure models provide the best solutions, with a visor or goggles and a peak to protect the eyes, in this case from the sun.
Choosing a helmet isn’t something you can take for granted, especially when you’re starting out. Here’s a complete guide on how to choose your ideal helmet.
In hotter environments it’s especially critical to have a backpack with water bag. Having a good supply of water and being able to drink whenever we feel the need – even if it won't be that cool after a few hours – will avoid the risk of dehydration.
It's the last day, and it's time to take a photo of what’s now become a family. While the trucks, 4x4s and vans take their places in the photo frame, us and the participants stay in a shelter at the foot of the dunes, waiting to be called group by group for the traditional photos.
By now, we all know each other, participants and guests are chatting, some are drinking a cup of tea, some are having a snack and others are encouraging each other for an impromptu challenge on the dunes. Kiriam and Rodolfo once again delight us with their riding skills. A brave – or reckless – participant from group 5 takes on the dunes. He fell countless times, but he’s aware that he might never have such an opportunity again, and he’s learned to enjoy the Honda event to the full every day. This is the spirit that defines us. Hip hip hooray!
The photo turned out very well, just like all the other ones – the team of photographers and operators has been working non-stop. They positioned themselves in incredible places, waiting for the perfect shot. The drone filmed us as we were riding, and we also had some breaks to get ready for several photo and video shoots. The team was always there, capturing every moment, on open roads, when stuck in a difficult spot, as we were having fun in the pool or going to parc fermé to check on our motorcycle.
We’re near the conclusion, it's time for this event to end. Some are relieved to have got to the end of the journey safe and sound, but are also very proud of themselves for having tackled each stage, while others are disappointed of not having taken advantage of all that was on offer, opting for a more comfortable “holiday” experience. In any case, everyone is happy and the organizing team even more so. This was one of the most difficult and complicated Epic events, as we shouldn’t forget that in March 2022, when we decided to fly to Morocco and rent a 4x4 vehicle to assess the routes, we were still in the shadow of uncertainty due to the Covid pandemic, and we weren’t sure whether the 4th edition of the Africa Twin Morocco Epic Tour would take place.
Now that we’ve reached the end, I’d like to quote the following words, taken directly from this edition’s Road Book, in which all of us wrote: “... This journey has come to its end and we couldn't be prouder of what we’ve accomplished together. Look at yourself. You’re not the same person you were when you decided to embark on this adventure. Now you have more dreams, more stories to tell, more friends.
It’s been great, right? You were in the best place in the world to challenge your limits and surpass yourself on your Africa Twin, the perfect motorcycle for an experience like this and for discovering the depths of authentic, pure, unspoiled Morocco.
On behalf of Honda, we want to thank you once again for all the enthusiasm you put into every kilometer – it was just as special for us. So much so that we’re already preparing next year's adventure.
And yes, now it’s over, but we can’t help to wonder what next awaits us.
See you on the next tour?”
