The Great Getaway Costa Rica: Pura Vida in the ‘Switzerland of Latin America’

* In Costa Rican slang, this means magnificent, great, extraordinary. 

Palm trees, surf waves, white beaches. Rum, pineapples, volcanos. Costa Rica evokes so many images to one’s mind, but motorcycling is probably not one of them. BMW Motorrad wants to change this perspective with “The Great Getaway Costa Rica” motorcycle adventure. A “once-in-a-lifetime” journey in the best possible sense of the phrase, escaping everyday life to immerse yourself in the colors and vitality of Latin America. Pacific Ocean to the west, the Caribbean to the east: That's why Costa Rica was named the “rich coast”. To many, this tropical state nestled between Nicaragua – to the north – and Panama – to the south – represents one of the most beautiful countries in the world, and the most chilled one, too.  

The commercial version of “The Great Getaway” has a duration of ten days, including arrival and departure. The tour includes nine nights' accommodation in beautiful hotels, six days riding a BMW R 18, two days of relaxation and sailing on the Pacific at Las Catalinas, and zip lining at the Arenal Volcano. All under the banner of Costa Rica's motto: Pura Vida – enjoy life. Unfortunately, this kind of fun doesn’t come cheap: Riding a BMW Motorrad motorcycle in Latin America guided by Elephant Moto, the organizing company, costs a minimum of €6,950 per participant plus flight. But it's worth it. 

An experienced guide always by our side 

You arrive, get some rest, acclimatize, and then you’re off on the path to freedom and “Boxer Power”. For four days, in our case: We’re here for a short press preview event, to experience “The Great Getaway” in condensed form. For us, as for all other tour participants, the daily routine couldn’t be easier: Always follow our expert guide. This way, it’s impossible to get lost or stranded in the middle of nowhere: In fact, mechanic and a replacement vehicle discreetly ride in the back of the assistance van.  

We set off and arrive in San José. At about 9 a.m. it’s already 28 degrees, and we pass through breathtaking scenery – waterfalls, beaches lined with palm trees, and humid rainforests with giant trees that stretch 40 meters or more toward the sky. It’s a completely different world, made of leaves as large as sheets – fascinating and almost too garish in all its exuberant colors. In the morning and evening, streaks of orange and pink appear in the sky.  

In Costa Rica, you always need to be ready for the unexpected 

“Expect the unexpected”, Micho announces the morning of the briefing. Micho is our tour guide and one of the two founders of Elephant Moto, the dealership collaborating with BMW. Expect the unexpected. Such as trucks, for example, nonchalantly crossing the road even though oncoming vehicles have the right of way. Or bridges with just one lane usually missing the sign stating who should, in theory, go first. And let’s not forget the speed bumps, sometimes marked in yellow, sometimes not, but always rather high. Those “backbreakers” are everywhere – entrances, exits, and often even in smaller towns. At best, there’s a “Reductor” sign – at least some of the times. At worst, the vehicle in front of you just comes to an abrupt stop or takes off into the air. “Better proceed at walking pace,” Micho recommends in a fatherly tone – good advice for both riders and vehicles. You also need watch out for the potholes lurking on pretty much every road and that, in some places, cover the entire area like a checkerboard and are as deep as swimming pools. 

Along the coastal highway feeling the Pura Vida vibe 

On the first day, we have about 160 kilometers ahead of us. We’re split into two groups, Americans and Europeans. The capital's ring roads are extremely busy. Micho creates a fast lane for us, in the middle. Past San José, we pass some wooden cottages, makeshift fruit stands and countless junkyards with cars cut in half: Here, it’s customary to build a new car from two old Japanese ones. At the first stop, at La Casita del Café, a large cup of iced coffee with caramel awaits us – a must for anyone visiting Costa Rica.  

And then, the bends. Finally. And also rain. Never mind, it’s refreshing. Feeling the Pura Vida vibe, we ride along Highway 3. Here, though it’s March, we welcome some light rain, which however stops just nine bends later. At the hotel, we are greeted with a vat full of ice cubes and cans of Imperial, the local beer. Saludos companeros. Real life seems to fade away when all you have to do is riding a motorcycle, strolling around airy 5-star hotels under a beautiful blue sky and, in the morning, the only thing you have to ponder is, “Will I make it for a quick dip in the pool before an omelet? Or should I wait until after the fruit tasting?”  

Costa Rica and its spectacular scenery 

Costa Rica encapsulates the whole world: It’s sometimes reminiscent of the African steppes, alternated with American prairies or Austrian meadows. And, right in the middle, the jungle. Humid rainforests, just as described on Wikipedia. Giant trees rising up to the sky. Waterfalls along the road. And beaches lined with palm trees. Truly spectacular landscapes. This mix of scenery and zest for life is intoxicating. We stop at Churchill's, the trendiest ice cream stand in the country. Then we have lunch on a stretch of the Pan-American Highway – rice with beans and a side dish of your choice, all washed down with mugs of pineapple juice. It’s the local cuisine, simple but very tasty. Just like the coconut juice we sip through a cane straw at one of the later intersections.  

We reach Las Catalinas, in the northwest region of the country. Participants will actually arrive here only on the fourth evening of their “Great Getaway”, after a tour inland – Turrialba, Trogon Lodge, Quebos – and then stay for two nights and spend a day at the sea aboard a catamaran to watch dolphins in the warm ocean. All that’s left for us to do is take a swim in the Pacific Ocean at sunset, before dining around the campfire, accompanied by the music of a bald-headed minstrel who sounds like a young Cat Stevens. All the while enjoying some suckling pig and, to finish, some Flor de Caña, a mild rum from Nicaragua.  

The tour is impeccably organized, we feel like VIPs 

The next morning, leaving is hard. The Santarena Hotel is a new and very clean colonial-style facility. A huge fan spins silently on the four-meter-high ceiling. Would I even have found this hotel on my own? Maybe after some intensive web searching. As a Getaway participant, I’m just led outside and then directed to the beach, for sunset drinks. The tour is impeccably organized, nothing is amiss. And let’s not forget the ‘incognito VIP treatment’ upon arrival (with the luggage waiting in the room) and checkout (just hand over the room card and off you go): This is pura vida, too. 

Same thing in the morning: All sparkling and standing in a row, our First Edition motorcycles are ready and waiting for us, black with a tank embellished with decorative white lines. There’s a kind of “Armageddon” atmosphere, as the guys, armed with their helmets, march decisively toward their ‘rocket’. Accompanied by the chatter of parrots, we’re graciously greeted by liveried staff. So hot! “Sunscreen?” asks Christian, who’s at our service to meet any needs. Our learned micro-economist is a true “Tico”, as Costa Rican men call themselves. Christian knows every tree and every living creature, and at every stop he hands out sunscreen and cool drinks. You don’t even have time to think where to throw away the empty bottle and there he is with a garbage bag, as discreet as a butler. Wet wipe to clean your hands after applying the sunscreen? Of course, Christian has it ready at hand. Including the garbage bag to throw it away. 

Everyone chooses a motorcycle, with or without side bags. A tank bag is enough for me: I just have my camera and tissues to wipe that irritating mix of sunscreen and sweat off my eyes. The optimal outfit for a motorcycle rider in the sweltering heat of Costa Rica consists of a mesh jacket that lets in as much cool air as possible – cool only in a manner of speaking as, on some days, the thermometer reaches 37 degrees. Still, it’s pleasant for those traveling with an open-face helmet or a classic modular helmet, preferably with a smoked visor. Lightweight summer gloves are essential in these temperatures, as are protective denim pants and lightweight motorcycle boots with a breathable membrane.  

From the most beautiful beach to a hidden waterfall: Off-road with the R 18 

Day three begins with a photo stop at Playa Flamingo, arguably the most beautiful beach on the Pacific Ocean in Costa Rica. An Instagram paradise, but there are no ‘selfie monsters’ in sight. Just us and a few elderly retirees, who are bravely taking on the small frothy waves. Our companion Holger emerges from the water and, dripping, goes back to the shore – for the rest of the day, he’ll have to struggle with the sand between his toes. Christian distributes sunscreen and energy drinks. A few more photos, then we go on. After a good 100 kilometers in the scorching heat, we park again: Catarata Llanos del Cortez, a dreamlike waterfall. It can only be accessed via a rough, extremely dusty dirt road. Those who can, ride in a standing position. Just a short off-road detour for the R 18 and it’s all a matter of will – suspension stroke is an overrated matter.   

As a reward for the impromptu adventure, towels and snacks await us down at the waterfall: Sandwiches, fruit, banana bread, cold drinks. In the shade, iguanas slink around on the rocks. The more daring of us swim across the waterfall. An overseer in a red Baywatch uniform quickly brings them back to order with his whistle. I indulge in a short nap on the warm sand. Rating: Five stars, once more. “The Great Getaway” is an experience to be lived at its fullest. Along the way, locals greet us as if we were rock stars: Honking, thumbs up, greetings – Wherever we go, it’s all ‘Peace and Happiness’. It feels great to be a member of this crew: People with motorcycles worth $23,000 are not often encountered here and almost all BMW R 18 vehicles registered in Costa Rica belong to Elephant Moto.  

Route 142: One of the most beautiful ribbons of asphalt in the world 

We’re approaching Arenal. This is the name of the huge volcano, of the reservoir in front of it, and of the national park. The road to the Lost Iguana Resort, where we’ll sleep tonight, is the highlight of this tour exclusively dedicated to riding. Bend after bend for miles, in the middle of the jungle, on thin asphalt with a great grip. This magical moment is worth the trip alone. Many just can’t help proclaiming this as one of the three best roads in the world. We own the formidable 142 – well, we and a whole lot of nasua, also known as white-nosed coati. Out of nowhere, two dozen kids suddenly appear before us on the road, apparently looking for something to eat. Sorry guys, unfortunately we don't have anything. The road is clear again. We continue to the hotel and take a dip in the small hot pool in front of the bar. 

This night in the jungle hotel goes quickly and without dreams. In the morning, there’s some consternation as we’re about to set out: One of the participants' backpack is missing, passport included. Did the nasua strike? Or was it the howler monkeys? On the first night, they had already ransacked a room, as our fearless companion Adam had slept with the balcony door open. Panic over: the backpack was in the bag of the R 18 Bagger on which Chris, our second lead rider, travels – a cool guide who always has everything under control.   

Final day of the trip – the last 170 kilometers. Our Getaway ends at the Elephant Moto's headquarters in downtown San José, in the midst of urban traffic, at the heart of a hustle and bustle that’s so different from all you’ll experience on the roads of the Great Getaway. We park at the store, and have a last chat and a cold beer while saying our goodbyes. Those who wish, can get a quick a souvenir tattoo. Gerd, our service mechanic, gets a tattoo that says “Open Roads. Open Minds” on his forearm. Below it, the tattoo artist has drawn the throttle grip of an R 18 and a hand grasping it. “When you want to come back to Costa Rica, give us a call,” Chris says during the “big hug” in front of the bus that takes us to the hotel. You can count on it, my friend.